Vražji Robert, Osp, 8b+ 120m

Osp in Slovenia is a very popular and really amazing sport climbing area. There are so many routes that no one can get bored. Just ten minutes walk from the village and you are under “big wall” with some very nice multipitch climbs. Most of them are bolted but you can still find some with traditional protection. Vražji Robert is one of these routes. It used to be an aid route but Igor Kalan made a first free ascent and graded it 8b. (P1 V+, P2 8b, P3 7c+, P4, 7a, P5 6b+) The route is protected with pitons but there are bolts at the belays. The pitons are quite old and rusty but there are quite a few so it doesn’t feel very serious. The forth pitch (7a) is the most serious because of broken rock and fewer pitons. So far all the climbers that free climbed the route (6?) climbed the hardest part in two pitches (8b, 7c+) with a hanging belay in between. I tried the route once in 2010 but I wasn’t strong enough to do it. Even then all the climbers I was talking to agreed that it would be very logical to skip the hanging belay and climb from ledge to ledge in one big pitch. Back then I couldn’t imagine myself doing it. Arriving back from Tibet I was very motivated for rock climbing and as I got stronger I started thinking about that big pitch. I had a try in November and I was […]

Rolling Stones
Rolling Stones11_Luka Krajnc

Pred petimi leti sva s Silvom Karom plezala v gorah okoli Mont Blanca. Z vrha granitnega stolpa na katerega sva priplezala se je dobro videl vrh Grandes Jorasses. Med številnimi drugimi zgodbami, ki mi jih je pripovedoval Silvo, jaz pa sem jih z odprtimi usti požiral, mi je takrat pripovedoval o smeri Rolling Stones v severni steni Grandes Jorasses, katere drugo ponovitev so leta 1985 opravili Silvo Karo, Janez Jeglič in Slavc Svetičič. “To bi se po mojem dal zlest na frej.” je zgodbo zaključil Silvo. Od takrat se mi je ta ideja večkrat prikradla v misli. Od sanjarjenja o prostem vzponu  v tej smeri, ko se nisem počutil dovolj sposobnega za kaj takšnega, do tega, da je ta vzpon postal eden izmed mojih glavnih kratkoročnih ciljev v Evropi, je minilo pet let. Linija smeri Rolling Stones. photo: Luka Lindič V tem času sem večkrat prebral poročila plezalcev, ki so ponavljali smer. Zadnje ponovitve so bile, zaradi zelo toplih in suhih poletij ter posledične nevarnosti kotalečega kamenja, opravljene jeseni, pozimi ali spomladi. Iz poročil je bilo možno razbrati, da so ponavljalci naleteli na konstantne težave v strmi, mestoma krušljivi skali s slabšimi možnostmi varovanja. Nihče ni omenjal možnosti prostega vzpona, a več kot dovolj je bilo, da jo je omenil Silvo. Sam sem si zamislil, da bi bil najugodnejši termin za poskus prostega vzpona aprila ali maja, ko ni več zimskega mraza, kljub vsemu pa je dovolj hladno, da je manjša nevarnost kotalečih kamnov. Sredi zadnjega marca, po prihodu z izmenjave […]

Tibet, looking back and forward
Tibet17_Luka Lindic

My main project for last year was an expedition to Tibet with Slovenian team (Marko Prezelj, Nejc Marčič, Martin Žumer, Luka Krajnc, Luka Stražar, Tadej Krišelj, Luka Lindič and doctor Miha Gašperin). Our objective was the 7661m high Phola Gangchen. There is one really obvious line on its unclimbed south face. For me, it is a perfect line. It has a bit of everything that I like to climb on  the steep face. The difficulty of the line motivated me to put in a lot of training to be prepared. After soloing Peuterey Integrale on Mont Blanc I felt I was ready to attempt Phola Gangchen. On the approach to our base camp when we saw the mountain for the first time, I sat down to just stare at it for a while. I looked at the photos of the face at home many times, but it was still good to finally be there and see it in person. We had a beautiful base camp by the lake at around 5000m to get acclimatized. Sometimes acclimatization can be boring, but you find ways to pass the time. Our first ascent was on Ice Tooth (6200m). We climbed the East pillar, which was a little difficult, but became easier during the mixed climbing and into the snow during the upper part of the route.   Later only Marko and I were motivated to try the line on the south face of Phola. The approach to the face was complicated and took a […]

Peuterey Integrale

I first saw this ridge for years ago. It was like love at first sight. Every now or then I was dreaming about it. Soloing is not something I would prefer, but for this climb I felt I want to “have” it only for myself. This year I felt ready. I wanted to do it in a single push but I didn’t went for it with stopwatch. My goal was to do it safe. I walked to the Borelli hut the evening before my climb. The spirit at the hut is one of the best I ever found on any hut! After a good dinner and short sleep I started the day at 3:30. I walked slowly to the base of the A. Noire. I started climbing when it was still dark. The gear I took for the climb When I switched of my headlamp I was already at the height of Pointe Gamba. I really enjoyed the climbing on good granite to the top of A. Noire. First rays At 9:30 I was already sharing the view with the virgin from the summit of A. noire. I immediately started with rappels towards Dames Anglaises. Sharing the view I did 13 rappels to the Breche S and started scrambling on loose rock tovards Breche N and Bivouack Craveri. On the way I was lucky to find melting snow to fill my bottle. Even if it was dirty it felt really good. One of the steepest rappels Dames Anglaises, lots of […]

Korenina, 24 hours of Triglav

There are always routes everybody talks abot so much that they became legendary. Almost myths. Korenina (VIII+, 1000m) in the north face of Triglav is for sure one of these routes. It’s because of its author legendary Franček Knez and because being still unrepeated. With Andrej Grmovšek we decided to check how this myth looks like. North face of Triglav We spend the night before a climb in the bivy below the face. The line looked promising dry. After a short sleep we ate breakfast at 4:00 in the morning and started our very long day. We quickly climbed first two easier pitches. I was belaying Andrej in the first harder pitch, when I saw waterfall running directly over the overhang two pitches higher in “our” line. We couldn’t believe. It looked impossible to climb through that overhang in this conditions. We decided to check it anyway. I put on my Gore-Tex jacket and started the pitch. It was totally worth to have a try, cuz we found out that there is an amazing passage around the waterfall. Climbing around waterfall. Photo: Andrej Grmovšek We climbed first crux. Few easier pitches followed and then it started again. Steep climbing over roofs on sometimes loose rock. Andrej climbing over one of the many roofs in the middle part of the route In this part it started to rain for the first time. We waited under the overhang for rain to stop.  Waiting under overhang. Photo: Andrej Grmovšek When it stopped we […]

Two weeks in France

Last month I spend two weeks in France. First week in Chamonix for Arc’teryx Alpine Arc’ademy. It was again a great event. First day I soloed Voie Frison Roche on the Brevent. The lifts were not working that day but it didn’t bother me as I am in the mood of collecting vertical meters this season. Still lots of snow at the Brevent Nice climbing on good rock After this I spend a day (and night) on The Overnight Bivouac Clinic. Check the photos and you will see how was it. Super! Sandy and Peter Cayenne team:) Dinner Good morning After the event I climbed with James McHaffie for two days. On the first day he climbed Thai Kickboxing a crazy off width crack. Mega! Thai Kickboxing Then I moved to La Grave, where I joined Slovenian team on a climbing trip. With Luka Krajnc I first did first free ascent of route L’empire des sons in Rateau. Due to dry conditions we climbed many pitches in the range of M6. After a day of rest on the Promontoire hut we all climbed north face of La Meije. Again with Luka Krajnc I did Z couloir direct with climbing up to M6. We all then traversed the magnificent ridge of La Meije and descended back to La Grave. La Meije and Rateau Marko and Manu starting their climb in Rateau Luka Krajnc in Rateau Freeing the aid pitch. Photo: Luka Krajnc At the summit ridge of Rateau North face of La […]

Between knots and bolts

Paklenica and Czech. What a contrast! In Paklenica you clip bolts in Czech you try to place some knots called “smička”. Which place is better? Well, it probably depends on the mood. It’s hard to describe it with words. Photos works better. Aniča Kuk. Slabs in route Senza Pieta. Veronika in ultra clasic route Klin. Matic in Zenit, 7b. In the steepest part of Zenit. Adršpach. Luka Krajnc, Karel Belina and big smička. Trying to place a smička. Photo: Tadej Krišelj Looking for the next hold. Photo: Marko Prezelj Normal runout. Photo: Marko Prezelj Tadej Krišelj in Adršpach. … Photo: Marko Prezelj Summary and some more photos of our trip to Czech: http://www.pzs.si/novice.php?pid=8274


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